[•] FUJIFILM X RAW STUDIO

Fujifilm have finally released the RAW converter image software.

Download:

https://fujifilm-x.com/x-stories/fujifilm-x-raw-studio-features-users-guide/

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After install and running the software you can only use this program if you connect your Fujifilm camera. Which is a bit of a letdown as I prefer just dropping my SD card into the computer and not add this extra step for post processing. Also this puts pressure on using the camera port all the time which in my opinion adds more wear and tear on the connection port.  (Please fix this Fuji don’t lock us out of software/hardware like Apple) This type of restrictions drive me away from companies/products.

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Must make sure you set the menu in camera “Connection Setting” – “PC Connection Mode” to USB RAW Convert.

Now you will see the RAW images as seen in screenshot.

On right hand side ” Conversion Settings Pane” drop down list choose Jepg or Tiff. In my case I wanted Tiff. And any other correction just change them as desired to suit your needs. The Film simulation is a fantastic option if your your camera settings are set as standard.

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Right Click on thumbnail “Convert”

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Convert is straight forward though I encountered a few shut downs with the SD card and computer  as there are some bugs to iron out.

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Once converted your lovely readable Tiff or Jepg File is ready for Post in any software editor or if happy upload to desired social media.

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Ill take the Tiff to Adobe Bridge as I want more control on editing.

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Exposure, Highlights, Shadows, Clarity and Saturation are examples of further imaging tweaking I like to add to an image.

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This was just a quick test photograph sample that was back lit and wanted to see how Fujifilm have evolved their end of processing the RAW. The results are promising so far. Just the SD card issue connecting and reconnecting is something that I need to address.. Maybe drop the images onto the desktop and run the software straight from a folder will be the best option.

Only gripe as I said connecting the camera every time to run software is painful. Wish we could just register our camera’s serial number to the software.

Photo: Fujifilm GFX50S with Canon FD 20mm – Adaptor Fotodiox – with camera in the new 35mm Format Mode. The beauty of using older lenses like the 20mm Canon FD works exceptionally well as you can see in the photograph. The bokeh is beautiful.

Thanks Fujifilm for the converter its much appreciated.

 

 

Regards,

[•] p 🔺 z r 🔺 h n

 

 

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[•] Fujifilm GFX50S 35mm Format Mode

GFX50S 35mm Mode

As Fujifilm have released the new firmware 3.0 this is a quick setup guide for 35mm Format Mode.

The new firmware feature makes it possible add and edit lens profile information within the GFX50S menu when standard 35mm lenses are attached with an adaptor .

Step 1) Attach adaptor to Lens (My choice adaptor is the Fotodiox Pro FD-GFX)

Step 2) Attach Lens & Adaptor to camera

Step 3) Turn on Camera – Press Menu (Camera picture or Third menu down) Page 2 – “Mount Adaptor Setting” – OK – “Lens Registration” OK – Lens 1 Enter “Focal Length Setting” i.e 17mm

The setup I decided on were as follows:

Lens 1= 17mm ,

Lens 2 = 20mm,

Lens 3 = 24mm,

Lens 4 = 28mm,

Lens 5 = 35mm,

Lens 6 = 50mm

Step 4) Make sure 35mm Format Mode is :ON in other sub menu.

Note: Make sure the lens on the camera is selected with Lens registration so that the lens matches with the photographs EXIF data.

 

Firmware Here:

http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/gfx/gfx50s/index.html

 

 

 

Regards,

[•] p 🔺 z r 🔺 h n

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[•] Fujifilm GFX50s Medium Format Camera Vs Oppo A57 Phone Review

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Yes you read the title right and its not click bait some people really really want to see how a smart phone can stack up to the lastest professional camera. The ever evolving technology in a smart phone can it go toe to toe with a newly released medium format camera the Fujifilm GFX50s.

Now lets talk about specifications Fujifilm has 54.1 Megapixels (43.8 mm x 32.9 mm Bayer CMOS sensor) combined with the GF32-64mmF4 R LM WR Lens and the Oppo A57 with front camera (For Selfies) 16 Megapixels and a rear 13 Megapixels supported with f/2.2 lens

Both have Sony sensors just the size comparison is like a midget verse a giant.

Now I have to say the convenience of a smart phone must not be dismissed. Walking around the Australian Reptile Park I noticed this very cool snake in his exhibit. And having the Oppo phone in my pocket makes it such a simple task to snap a quick pic of either myself for the ultimate selfie to post on Faceback, Instagram, Twitter or any other social media platform for instant gratification. But no this was for the snake and Fujifilm verse Oppo A57 and not for me as selfie time is pretty much non existent in my work as I have a face for radio and not for television 😉

The first photo is hands down taken with the Oppo A57 and honestly I like it more than what I captured with the Fujifilm.. Many key factors involved and i’ll explain.

Focal Length is probably the biggest thing and the Oppo allowed me to get in nice and close as with taking the photo with the GFX50s the 32-64mm lens forced me back 50 cm. The phone I could hold it directly on the glass and minimise the reflection of light and with any slow settings in low light I was able to minimise the shake as well.

Analysing in photoshop you can see that one photo from the Oppo phone can fit four times into the one medium format. cool eh.

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Sometimes we get lucky with how we take a photograph and that is the most important thing when it comes to photography.

See in this whole process I prefer the result from the Oppo phone over the Fujifilm. The snake position plays in another factor 😦 but what impresses me the most it the out of camera the colours are richer and how the Oppo did extremely well in low light. On the lower part of the image the blacks are fantastic. yes there is substantial degradation in the pixels zooming in. And I’m not knocking the Fujifilm as it is no slouch. I have said in a previous review that the GFX50s is perfect example of future proofing your work in terms of quality and knowing years down the track the images will enable you to go back and work on them with no fuss and comfortable know the quality is there.

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The beauty of 100% crop in photoshop.

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Which one do you like best?

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Fujifilm GFX50s with 32-64mm F4, Aperture: F4, Shutter 1/50Sec, ISO: 3200 resulted in a 18MP Jepg.

Maybe it would be a different story if I had used a different lens but for this its just example and I’m not working for a client that demands the best in regards to high megapixels or for use on a billboard. What I’ve learned most from these little experiments is that every time it doesn’t matter what camera you have or use as long as you get the photo you like best. I just think its fantastic the convenience of a smart phone and the ability to quickly take a picture in a crowded space is an added bonus too.

If you found this informative useful and interesting feel free to leave a comment below. If you have an Oppo A57 phone high five me as I love it and its is substantially cheaper than the latest iPhone and that money saved can go towards a decent camera or lens if your new to photography and want to build a kit 😉

More here: <a href=”https://steemit.com/photography/@pazrahn/fujifilm-gfx50s-medium-format-camera-vs-oppo-a57-phone-review” rel=”nofollow”>steemit.com/photography/@pazrahn/fujifilm-gfx50s-medium-f…</a>

 

Regards,

 

[•] p 🔺 z r 🔺 h n

 

 

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[•] K&F Concept Camera Bag Review

 

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With a new bag comes a new bag review. For a long long time well 12 years in fact I have used a LowePro version camera bag in the same style as this K&F Concept bag.

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The K&F version has two plastic pads on the base for when you put the bag down on the ground to protect the base and the fabric of the bag including the gear inside which I really like. The outside front has clips for a tripod to hold centre of the bag while walking. Balance in a bag is the single most important feature.

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There are some details I like about the bag including the cute little embroidered tripod symbol. LowePro as a camera bag is a forgotten dream the prices are just sickening when you can purchase this bag for $75 and the build quality I would consider substantially better. The shoulder straps are firm and hold their shape and on the back feels very comfortable. The front pocket holds a Surface Pro tablet with ease.

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The zippers can be undone with one hand so if your a one handed photographer this will definitely cater for you.

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The bones of the bag allow for two decent DSLR’s. In the photo you can see with a little customisation of the support pads you can fit a Fujifilm GFX50s with 32-64mm lens. Up top is a Sony A7II mirrorless for the little projects along with two primes lenses. And other sections hold a dust blower, Lens hood and SD card holder case.

 

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Extras include waterproof dust cover and would you believe a gift zip bag containing a dust blower, spray bottle for lens cleaning and cleaning cloth. Such a thoughtful well presented bag for any photographer.

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Overall Rating 10/10

This is one of the best bang for buck bags around including build quality compared to any other bag on the market.

If you get this bag you will be filled with joy.

Disclosure: I am not funded by this camera gear company. Just a one man band doing the far and in between gear reviews on items I have purchased.

 

Bag Here: https://www.kentfaith.com/camera-backpacks/USKF13.051_professional-dslr-camera-backpack-waterproof-11-81-6-3-16-54-inches

 

Regards,

[•] p 🔺 z r 🔺 h n

 

 

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[•] Fujifilm GFX50S with Manfrotto 303SPH Panoramic Setup

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Items Required: Manfrotto Tripod, Manfrotto 303SPH Pano Head, Fujifilm Shutter Release Cable, Fujifilm GFX50S Camera with 32-64mm F4 Lens.

Set up with any camera with the Manfrotto 303SPH head is no easy feat but hopefully this write up can help steer you in the right direction to achieve optimal nodal point between the sensor and lens.

The panoramic head has three axis of directions to move the camera into position to find the nodal point.

To find this position will determine whether or not you will get a parallax error in the stitching of the multiple photographs you take to achieve a perfect panoramic .

The first thing to do attach camera quick release place and make sure it is square and tight to the bottom of the camera. Any little bit of movement can throw the setup out. And be mindful not to over tighten as you can thread the camera holding screw which will really mess up your day.

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Once attached to tripod and pano head rotate the camera so that the lens faces downwards towards the ground. On the lens you will see white marking lines these will help align the lens up with the centre of the tripod.

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Another trick is to rotate the entire pano head and look at the setup and see the the lens barrel rotates perfectly without any wobble.

Now that you have the basic horizontal alignment you must now find the nodal point. This can be found by looking through the viewfinder at two posts in front of you and as you rotate the lens see if the two posts especially the first post does not move out of position. (To understand this hold your hand up and point your finger to the sky in front of your face. Now open and close left eye then right eye a couple of times. Notice the position of your finger moves. This is basically what we are trying to do with the camera and eliminate that movement) When you move the angle the camera during rotation keep adjusting and looking at the posts until they stay in position. I find that a push pull trick with the upper plate helps and then tighten off the screw. This can take a few attempts so don’t get too flustered.

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With these basic steps complete the next step is upload the jpeg images and import into Photoshop (File, Automate, Photomerge) Auto and Press OK.

At this stage this will determine a clean stitch with all the photographs taken showing either an error or successful merger.

(Other software is photographing Spherical Panoramics I recommend PTGui)

Future video on YouTube in the works for further help.

 

 

Regards,

[•] p 🔺 z r 🔺 h n

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[•] Photographing Fiji on Octopus Island Resort.

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Located in the spectacular Yasawa region of the Fiji Islands, Octopus Resort lies 27 nautical miles west from Nadi International Airport (NAN). The resort is set on the western side of Waya Island, allowing for breathtaking views of sunsets in the South Sea Islands. Getting to Octopus Island Resort from Nadi is easily done by jumping on a boat, which is about 35 minutes. Along the way are there are many islands and if your lucky might see a pod of dolphins to watch play along the side of the boat.

There are Garden View Bure’s for accommodation but the perfect way to stay is in the Premium Bure as I recommend having the air-conditioning on those very hot days. Adjoining the room is your very own private outdoor shower and courtyard. The view from the front is relaxing and a nice change away from the hustle and bustle of city life. Say good bye to looking at your mobile phone and internet this is the perfect place to detox away from all those gadgets.

Looking Out

[•] Looking Out

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In the series of photographs. Can you see it? A face on the side of the mountain. The walk up is not for the faint hearted and I do recommend a level of fitness. With every step and grasping breath it was confirmed the height to the top of the island was 385m in total thanks to a German with a fancy watch. The hike took about 3 hours and is a great way to loose a little weight around the belly. If you do manage to visit this place please take plenty of water on the hike and some snacks.

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Every day the local tour guide (depending on the weather) would take tourists up and he really enjoyed seeing how unfit we were often having a good laugh between breaks.. He had such a great sense of humour. The mountain walk is a great add to anyone’s bucket list and has to be one place on earth with the most breathtaking views. Just don’t look down it is by far another sheer drop if your scared of heights.

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This is the type of holiday experience that is even better with friends and made as a group holiday.

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Note: Camera: Canon EOS 5D a few lenses EF 24-105mmF4, 16-35mm F2.8L II USM

Regards,

[•] p 🔺 z r 🔺 h n

 

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Fujifilm GFX 50s RAW Edit Workflow

This process is for those who don’t use Adobe Creative Cloud CC and can’t view the RAW .RAF file. Here are a few Free workarounds to edit your GFX 50s Photographs.

After taking your photograph in RAW and unfortunately for many of us the workflow has added an extra step with the RAF File (.RAF) as it must be converted into a workable file for Lightroom or Photoshop.

Option 1:

Here is an example of the workflow:

  1. Take Photograph
  2. Place the captured files into your desired folders on computer. (i.e RAW Photographs Folder)
  3. Run the DNG Converter Program.
  4. Click Extract button – Select file source RAF File (.RAF) and Select a desired output folder (i.e Photographs Folder)
  5. Click Convert run the process. (New files are placed in file folder ready to edit in Lightroom and Photoshop/Bridge.

DNG Converter

The conversion of RAW original straight out of the camera will now be a DNG File (.dng) and look something like this in the folder: DSCF1000

The Adobe DNG converter can be Downloaded from here:

PC: http://supportdownloads.adobe.com/product.jsp?product=106&platform=Windows

Mac: http://supportdownloads.adobe.com/product.jsp?product=106&platform=Macintosh

Make sure you download the current version to ensure that the program has the camera you are shooting with.

Option 2:

RAW FILE CONVERTER EX 2.0 powered by SILKYPIX (Ver.4.2.6.0) Installer for Windows

http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/myfinepix_studio/rfc/

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Fujifilm Raw Conversion with Silkypix Software.
32.9MB File with a small crop. The Orginal was 45.7MB.

Saved with basic editing. See the adjacent screen shots in flickr stream. <—–

1.) Run Silkypix Software on PC or Mac
2.) Open Raw file (Photograph)
3.) Change view and Ctrl + will zoom in to desired viewing for edit.
4.) I added a little Strong Contrast and increased Saturation to 1.5 to make the green pop. Colour Mode was changed to Film Simulation, And Last Film Simulation to: Velvia/Vivid.
5.) File, One Scene Development.
6.) Basic Settings Choose JEPG and the JEPG Compressed to drop down to: The Highest Quality; EXIF Non Conforming. And Click Development(S) Button.

Well Done you now have a finished edited Jpeg ready to share to the world.

[•] Old Helensburgh Metropolitan Railway tunnel.

If conversion is done with Adobe DNG converter the .dng file is larger at 129MB then when edited in Photoshop produced a 29.3MB Jepg.

Option 3: 

Iridient X-Transformer – A high quality Fujifilm RAF to DNG image converter.

Iridient X-Transformer 1.0 beta 3 Software At this stage it is Beta version. I have tested this software and has performed slightly less than Adobes version. If it was a better program I would be interested but because of the short comings could not justify spending $43.59 on more software.

http://www.iridientdigital.com/

Best RAW Converter Results

Adobe RAW converter produces a nicer look to the image compared to the others . 100% crop looks the cleanest in my book. I personally prefer Adobe DNG Converter for the results and the workflow. Adobe has performed better results. The Silkypix RAW Converter is a softer image once converted and too soft for my liking. The Iridient X-Transformer Converter is the lessor performer of all three and I wasn’t a fan of the result.

It will be important to work out what your preferred file conversion is from RAW to Jpeg is minimize the storage of files on Hard Drive.

Regards,

[•] p 🔺 z r 🔺 h n

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